4G Smart Meter Communications Hub

A photo of our electric meter with a new 4G communications hub on top.

If you’ve been reading this blog for some time now, you’ll be aware that, in March last year, our smart electric meter stopped being smart. It’s now fixed, and we have a new 4G communications hub too.

For some reason, that even now we’re not entirely sure of, no regular readings were being set back to our energy supplier. This meant that we had to take manual readings, which was a pain – our meter is in a cubby hole under the stairs in our cellar, behind our tumble dryer. We get our energy from Octopus (referral link), and although they tried various things at their end, after a few weeks, it was determined that we needed an engineer visit.

Unfortunately, this has coincided with the shutdown of the Radio Teleswitch service, which controls older Economy 7 meters. This means that, nationally, there’s huge demand for engineer visits to replace these older meters with newer smart meters. Whilst the shutdown should have happened last year, it’s been delayed and will (probably) happen this year. As such, it took until January for us to finally get an engineer visit.

The Communications Hub

It turns out that the electricity meter itself was fine. The issue was in the Communications Hub; if you have smart meters, then you’ll typically have:

  • An electricity meter
  • A gas meter (if you have mains gas)
  • A communications hub, which sits on top of the electricity meter and manages the home connection and the link with your energy supplier
  • An In-Home Display (IHD) which displays your usage
  • Some Octopus customers also have an Octopus Home Mini which sends your usage data over your Wi-Fi connection in real-time.

All these talk to each other using a private Zigbee mesh network. The Communications Hub then sends data to your energy supplier using one of three methods:

  1. If you live roughly south of the M62, then it’s sent over O2’s 2G or 3G data network.
  2. If you live roughly north of the M62, then it’s sent over a lower frequency 400 MHz radio data network operated by Arqiva.
  3. Or, if you have a newer communications hub, it’ll use Vodafone’s 4G network, and these are installed nationally.

4G migration

We originally had the second type, but now we have the third type which uses 4G. And it’s been working fine since the engineer installed it back in January, which is a relief. We’ve also noticed that it has a better connection with our IHD; before, it would periodically lose connection and wouldn’t show live data.

Plus, the new 4G communications hub is more future proof. If you have an older smart meter communications hub that uses 2G or 3G, then at some point in the future, your energy supplier will need to replace it. Of the four big networks, O2 is the only one still offering 3G at the time of writing. In fact, it may have already been switched off by the time you read this.

The slower 2G networks will be around a little longer, but the plan is that they too will be switched off in 2033. So, if you live in central and southern England, or in Wales, and have a smart meter, then sometime in the next 7 years, an engineer will need to come over and replace your Communications Hub. It should only take about an hour, and, at least in our case, there was no interruption to our electricity supply whilst the work was being done. There are no plans to shut down the 4G networks any time soon; according to this web site, Vodafone’s 4G contract runs until 2038.

If you live in the North of England or Scotland, then your current communications hub should carry on working. However, if you are having connection problems, then a 4G communications hub may work better.

Meanwhile, I’m just relieved that we don’t have to do any more manual readings.

Plug-in solar is coming to the UK

On Sunday, the government announced the go-ahead for shops and supermarkets to sell ‘plug in solar’ kits. These are solar panels which don’t require a professional installation, and can be simply plugged in to a regular plug socket to power your home.

Until now, plug-in solar panels haven’t been legal in the UK. If you wanted solar panels, you either had to have them professionally installed, or only use them with a battery that you kept separate from the energy grid. We had solar panels professionally installed on our roof in 2023. Meanwhile, a former colleague of mine had a series of fold-out portable solar panels that she uses with a portable battery for use in her campervan.

The UK is catching up with our European neighbours in this regard. In Germany, over half a million households already have these systems, which are known as Balkonkraftwerk and can be picked up for around £500. These plug-in solar panels can simply clip over your balcony railings. Seeing as the German supermarkets Aldi and Lidl are now widespread in the UK, I wouldn’t be surprised if these plug-in solar kits will start appearing in their middle aisles soon.

Because they don’t require a professional installation, they’re much more suited to people who rent their homes, and people who live in flats without access to a roof.

Why hasn’t plug-in solar been legal before?

So why is the UK only now catching up with Germany? Here’s an explanation from Terence Eden, who I credit with first making me aware of this:

Terence Eden

@inpc because the grid was originally designed to support electricity flowing in one direction.

It's a bit like asking why it's illegal to connect your sewage pipe back into the mains. It wasn't designed for that and it carries risks.

Thankfully, the grid is mostly upgraded and can now handle energy flowing in both directions.

March 15, 2026, 14:34 1 boosts 2 favorites

The electricity grid needs to be capable of handling both import and export from households, and in the past it wasn’t very good at this. Nowadays, it mostly is, and so a big increase in people exporting excess electricity from their homes shouldn’t cause too many problems. Which is a relief, considering how many houses already have solar panels – it’s rare to see a housing estate with at least a couple of houses with solar panels on their roofs already.

You may not get export payments

Depending on your energy supplier, using a plug-in solar kit may not allow you to get payments from your energy company for the electricity that you export. Most suppliers will insist on a Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS) certificate, which only comes from professional installations. However, Octopus Energy no longer requires this for its Outgoing Octopus export tariffs, so if you’re with them, you just need to contact them to get set up for export payments.

It’s worth noting that you’ll be paid significantly less per kWh for exporting electricity; as it stands, Octopus pay 12p per kWh, versus typically 24p kWh for import. It was 15p per kWh until earlier this year. Most other suppliers pay even less, so if you’re not already with Octopus, maybe consider switching. Here’s my referral link – you’ll get £50 off your next bill once your first direct debit payment has been taken, and so will I.

In any case, if you’re considering a plug in solar kit, maybe also consider buying a battery that you can charge whilst it’s sunny. Anker’s SOLIX range is popular, and here’s a 2 kWh model that costs £999 (sponsored link). That way, you can use the excess electricity yourself.

This will help the UK reduce its fossil fuels reliance

As energy secretary Ed Milliband says in the announcement linked above:

Global events demonstrate there’s not a moment to waste in our drive for clean power because there can be no energy security while we are so dependent on fossil fuels.

Oil and gas prices have shot up in recent weeks, thanks to the latest war in the Middle East. Allowing more households to start using solar power will reduce our reliance on burning gas to generate electricity, as well as being better for the environment and air quality. We spent a five figure sum getting our solar panels installed three years ago; now, many households will be able to get a small system for just a few hundred pounds. And I think that’s great news.

Solar panels – a 3 year retrospective

A screenshot of the spreadsheet that I am using to track solar panel savings

Roughly three years ago to the day, we invested in a set of solar panels, along with an inverter and battery. Although I did a two year review last year, I’ve decided to do another one as we’ve reached the point where we’ve recouped 25% of our initial investment.

Back in 2023, the system we had installed cost around £11,000. We paid for most of it out of savings, topped up with a contribution from my parents and the rest was borrowed. We finished paying off the borrowed money at the end of 2024. So, on the basis that it has taken us three years to get to 25%, it means the full return on investment will probably take another 9 years. By then, we’ll still have a couple of years left on the mortgage, and our ten-year-old may or may not have left home by then.

Our system is from SolaX, and although they provide an app, I also transpose the data each month into a spreadsheet. What is notable is that 2023 was our best year – for example, in May 2023, our total savings were £136.78, made up of £85.90 of saved electricity and £50.88 of exported electricity. Over the course of the entire year, we saved £855.45.

Savings in 2024 were lower – £750.79. And last year was only a few pence higher at £750.96. Indeed, the weather last month was pretty terrible, as we only saved £11.43 and didn’t export anything. Suffice to say, we’ve already saved more this month with several days left to go. On average, our system saves us £65.48 per month on our electricity bill, and in some of the summer months, we actually get a net negative electricity bill as we export more than we use.

One thing we haven’t yet done is have our solar panels cleaned. It may be that, after being cleaned, they may allow more light in. However, having spoken to others online, they’ve found that it makes very little difference.

I think it’s important to be open about the savings we’re making. Whilst prices have come down – a similar system may cost around £9000 now – getting solar is a big investment, especially when paired with a battery. As such, I hope this information is useful if you’re considering getting solar and have a suitable property.

Difference between level 1, 2 and 3 chargers

A photo of my Nissan Leaf, with the car charging port open and a Type 2 cable plugged in.

This is one of those blog posts where I’d wondered something, looked it up, and am now sharing what I’ve found out. When it comes to charging your electric car, you may hear the terms ‘level 2’ or ‘level 3’ charger being used. They’re not common terms in the UK, but you may encounter them in other countries – especially the US.

Level 1 chargers

A level 1 charger is, essentially, just a standard 3 pin plug like you have at home. Your electric car will probably come with an adaptor cable, with a 3 pin plug on one end, and a Type 2 plug on the other end. There’s usually a chonky box on the cable, known as an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment), that regulates the power flow. Colloquially, these are known as granny chargers.

In the UK, our standard power supply is 240 volts and 13 amps. Going back to GCSE Science, we know that power is the product of voltage and current (amps), so the maximum output is 3.1 kW. An electrician may be able to fit a waterproof external plug socket for you which is rated at 16 amps, upping the maximum power output to 3.8 kW. One of our neighbours had this done for charging their plug-in hybrid as it was cheaper than a dedicated car charger (level 2, as we’ll encounter in a bit).

In the US, the voltage is lower (typically 120 volts) but the current can be as high as 20 amps, depending on how it’s been wired. However, even a 20 amp socket in the US can only output a maximum of 2.4 kW due to the lower voltage.

A level 1 charger is therefore going to charge your car quite slowly – especially if you have a big battery. I have also seen photos of plug sockets that have melted due to continual use for charging electric cars. And it’s (probably) the least efficient; some tests suggest that 25% of the electricity doesn’t make it into your car’s battery and is lost as heat.

Level 2 chargers

Level 2 chargers are the dedicated electric car chargers that you can get fitted at home. In our case, we have a Rolec EVO unit, and this will be fitted to the outside of your house. In the UK, it’ll have a Type 2 connector, and will be capable of much higher current – up to 32 amps. That equates to (almost) 7.7 kW, which is the maximum that you can get on a single-phase electrical supply that is standard in UK homes.

My Rolec charger lets me vary the current, so I can set it below 10 amps if I’m not in a hurry and want to make the most of my solar panels. Level 2 chargers also incorporate EVSE inside them, so the cables just tend to have a standard type 2 plug on each end.

Many public chargers are also level 2 – especially older ones. Some may be connected to a three-phase electrical supply, which triples the power output to 22 kW. You’ll generally find these at places where you can park your car all day.

I used to describe level 2 chargers as ‘medium’ speed, but a full charge at 7 kW will take a long time for larger vehicles (they’re now known as ‘standard’ chargers for 3-7 kW and ‘standard-plus’ for 8-22 kW). For our Nissan Leaf, a full charge (from 0 to 100%) would take 6 hours and 30 minutes, although that’s partly because it can only accept 6.6 kW from level 1 or 2 chargers.

Level 3 chargers

Level 3 chargers are the rapid and ultra-rapid chargers that can output 40 kW or more – some can do up to 150 kW. Unlike level 1 and 2, these chargers use DC (Direct Current) rather than the standard AC (Alternating Current) that you would get from a standard 3-pin plug. They also use different plugs – CCS2 is the most common, but some cars, like our Nissan Leaf, use a competing standard called CHAdeMO. You’ll also find that these are almost always ‘tethered’ chargers that include their own cable, so you won’t need to plug your own cable in.

I doubt you would be able to get a level 3 charger installed at home, as they’re expensive and would probably need planning permission and authorisation from the electricity distribution network operator (DNO). But increasing numbers of these rapid chargers are available when out and about, and especially at places like motorway service stations where you need to charge quickly whilst en-route somewhere.

How fast your car will charge will again depend on its maximum charging speed. Our Nissan Leaf, when using CHAdeMO, can only accept up to 46 kW. Still, that means a full charge in less than an hour.

DC chargers are also more efficient, in that you’re less likely to lose power as heat than AC chargers. As these chargers are generally the ones you pay a premium for, that’s a good thing as almost all the electricity you pay for will make it into your car’s battery. However, regular use of rapid chargers can degrade the battery more quickly.

How to: read a not-so-smart export meter

A photo of our electricity meter showing our export reading

Somewhat annoyingly, our smart electric meter stopped being smart on the 26th March. I’m not entirely sure what happened, but since then, we’ve not had any automatic electricity readings sent to our energy supplier.

After a week, I reported the issue to Octopus, who are our energy supplier. We exchanged some emails back and forth, and tried various things, but apparently to no avail. What was weirder was that the gas meter still submits regular readings.

This web site has loads of information about smart meters, including how they work and how they communicate with your energy supplier. As well as the gas and electric meters, all homes with a smart meter have a ‘communications hub’ that sits on top of the electric meter, and it’s this that sends the data. So even though it was sat on top of our electric meter, it was only sending data from the gas meter. Weirder still is our ‘in home display’ (IHD) – the small black screen that sits away from our meters in our dining room. That was still accurately displaying data from both gas and electric meters.

With Octopus unable to fix the problem remotely, we’ll need an engineer to come out. And right now, there’s a long wait for smart meter engineer visits, as energy companies are currently prioritising those with a ‘radio teleswitch’ (RTS) meter. These older meters were used for (for example) Economy 7 tariffs, and listen for a radio signal to switch to a cheaper tariff – they’ve been around since the 1980s. Alas, the radio signal is being switched off at the end of next month, and there’s an estimated 400,000 RTS meters still in use. That doesn’t leave very long to have these replaced with smart meters.

Going back to manual readings

So whilst our gas readings are being sent automatically on a regular basis, we’re back to doing manual readings for electricity. As we have solar panels, we have to do two separate readings – an import reading, for the energy we use from the grid, and an export reading, for the energy that we sell back to the grid.

For the import readings, we can just use the IHD – press a few buttons, and it’ll give us our usage. But the IHD doesn’t display export readings. For that, we have to take a reading from the screen on the meter itself.

Our electricity meter is in our cellar, under the steps down from the kitchen. After we had our kitchen renovated, we also improved the access to the cellar, but it’s still in an awkward place. I have to move our tumble dryer out of the way, and crouch in the small space under the steps to take the reading.

It’s also not the most straightforward process. The meter itself has a small screen and two buttons, and you need to know which combination of button presses are required. Thankfully, Octopus offers this excellent guide to how to read various types of meters, and so I was able to submit both import and export readings. The next day, we were credited £116 for all the electricity we’d exported since the 26th March.

Hopefully, it won’t be too long before an engineer visits and fixes the issue for us. In the meantime, I’m also waiting to see if we can get an Octopus Home Mini, which bridges across to your home Wi-Fi network and sends data in near real-time.

Could our house go off-grid?

We’ve had our solar panels for a couple of years now, and, as a thought experiment, I’ve wondered if it would be possible to go ‘off grid‘. This would mean having no connection to the electricity and gas networks, and potentially the water network too.

Now, I’m very much aware that this is a classic example of Betteridge’s Law of Headlines, and indeed, the short version of this is pretty much, ‘no’ when it comes to electricity and water. Especially if the person reading this is my wife, Christine (love you sweetheart). It is intended to be a thought experiment after all.

Getting off the gas grid

We’ll start with the easiest one – getting off the gas grid. This is actually a long-term of ours, and many homes are now getting disconnected from the gas grid.

When we bought our house, which will have been 10 years ago this summer, it was a very gas-reliant house. There were three gas fires, a gas central heating boiler and water tank, and a gas cooker. We got two of the gas fires out before we’d even moved in, and the remaining one followed when we had the very old gas boiler replaced with a more energy efficient condensing boiler in 2016. Next to go was the gas cooker, when we had the kitchen renovated in 2022, so now we only need gas for heating and hot water.

Now our boiler isn’t quite nine years old, but it’s likely to have a few years left in at least. When it’s due for replacement, our plan is to switch to an air source heat pump, which will be electrically powered. That will mean there’s no need for a gas connection to our home, and we can have it completely removed. As well as meaning that we don’t need to pay the daily gas standing charge, we’ll no longer have pipes carrying an invisible and highly flammable gas running into our home. And it’ll reduce our carbon footprint too.

Off-grid electricity

So that’s the easy one out of the way. Going off grid for electricity, however, is likely to be much harder.

We’ve made a start, at least, with our solar panels. In the summer months, with longer days and more sunlight, we generally generate enough to be self-sufficient. We also have a battery attached to the system, so the solar panels can charge the battery during the day, and then the house can run off the battery overnight.

However, at this time of year, we are very much not self-sufficient. This is especially true as I write this on a very dull Sunday afternoon, where our solar panels are contributing a mere 7 watts of power. That’s about enough to run a couple of LED light bulbs, but certainly not enough for our freezer, for example. We would therefore need other ways of generating electricity on dull days, or at night.

Turbine or not turbine

I’m old enough to remember when Britain was reliant on burning coal for electricity, but last year we shut down our last remaining coal-fired power station. Nowadays, wind power is the most dominant source of energy (you can see a live dashboard here). So, we could consider adding a wind turbine, giving us a second source of energy at home.

Ovo Energy have a useful guide here. Generally speaking, a roof-mounted turbine would be capable of generating 1-2 kW of electricity, which is less than half the peak capacity of our solar system. And that’s based on a lot of assumptions about wind speed that may or may not apply to your property.

As well as the installation cost, we would probably also need planning permission, as our house isn’t detached. We’re therefore looking at around £2000-3000, and it would probably take quite some time to recoup that investment.

Dull days with no wind

So, a solar system backed up with a wind turbine might cover our electricity needs. Unless it’s a dull day and there’s no wind.

I’m in a few Facebook groups for people who use Home Assistant and who have solar and battery systems, and quite a few other members have the Agile Octopus tariff. On this tariff, electricity prices change by the half hour, based on wholesale prices. If it’s forecast to be a particularly sunny and windy day, electricity prices can be very low. Indeed, they occasionally go negative – in other words, Octopus will actually pay you to take electricity out of the grid, rather than the other way round. It’s great for people who have battery systems that can charge from the grid, or who can plan their days to use more electricity at the times when it’s cheap.

Though we are Octopus Energy customers, we’re not on Agile Octopus, because prices can also shoot up on dull days with no wind. Our fixed tariff means we pay 21.10p/kWh, regardless of the weather, but on Agile Octopus, the electricity unit price can go up as high as £1 per kWh. And if you haven’t been able to charge up your home battery by then, it could get very costly.

As an aside, if you’re not already an Octopus Energy customer, here’s my referral link. You get £50 off your bill if you join, and their customer service is better than any other energy company that we’ve been with so far. There’s also an unofficial Home Assistant integration that uses their API.

Therefore, if we were to disconnect from the grid, we would need a third source of electricity. This is where it gets a bit more tricky. The options I have looked up so far include:

  • A wood burning stove, with a thermoelectric generator. However, in my research, I’ve yet to find anywhere in the UK that would sell such a system. And those that I have seen for home use would only be able to generate a few watts – not even enough for our house’s ‘base load’ (fridge, freezer, devices on standby etc). We have a chimney that we could use, but we would also need filters to stop particulate matter getting into the air.
  • Some form of hydro generation using water collected from rainfall on our roof. This would only really work when it rains; although we live in the Pennines where it rains quite a bit, I doubt this would power much more than a couple of light bulbs.
  • Therefore, we would probably have to fall back on a diesel generator, which would be noisy, smelly, and not good for local air quality or the environment.

No Smart Export Guarantee

The other benefit to being on the electricity grid is that you can be paid back for any excess electricity that you export. Even though it’s January, we’ve exported around £1 of electricity this month, and that’s only after our battery has been fully charged. In June last year, we were paid £46 for the electricity we exported, against £36 for the grid energy that we used. So that was a net payment to us that month. Indeed, over the whole of 2024, we were paid £227 for the excess electricity that we exported.

If we’re not on the grid, then we can’t export. So if our battery is full, that electricity is essentially being wasted. Of course, if I was serious about going off-grid, then I would probably invest in another battery to prevent this from happening, but then that’s another expense.

What about water?

Going off the water grid would be the most difficult. Although ironically, we’ve been inadvertently off the water grid four times so far this month, due to supply issues. I have an active complaint with Yorkshire Water about that, but let’s imagine that I want to willingly disconnect from the water grid for a moment.

Clearly, we would need some other way of getting clean water into the house. Rainwater is the most obvious, but we would then need somewhere to store it. In 2023, I read The Climate Change Garden (sponsored link) by Sally Morgan and Kim Stoddart, and the book shows you how you can store water in tanks underneath your garden to cope with water shortages. During the 2022 heatwave, we had a hosepipe ban for several months, and so I’m considering whether to get a water butt to store rain water for use in the garden. You may be eligible for a subsidised water butt from Save Water Save Money – you’ll need to pop in your postcode to see if your water company participates.

But even a butt, or huge tanks under our lawn, are unlikely to be sufficient. We would ideally need to have access to a constant flow of running water, such as a stream. And we would need the means to filter the water so that it’s fit for drinking.

And what about sewage? We don’t have a particularly big garden and so we probably wouldn’t have room for a septic tank, or any other means of storing and/or treating waste.

Gibson Mill at Hardcastle Crags, which is off-grid.

A case study: Gibson Mill

Up above Hebden Bridge is Hardcastle Crags, a National Trust property which is home to Gibson Mill. The Mill is off-grid, because of its remote location – it’s about a mile away from the nearest electricity cables, for example. So, electricity is instead generated on site, using solar panels and a hydro-electric generator. Mills were typically built next to watercourses and Gibson Mill is no exception, being served by Hebden Beck. Whilst this would have driven a waterwheel in years gone by, nowadays it drives a turbine to produce electricity. The solar panels have recently been replaced with newer, more efficient models, and there are huge batteries to store energy.

We last went back in 2023, and despite having more than one way of generating electricity on site, there was still a diesel generator at the back that was needed to top-up the electricity supply. Even then, they were unable to serve hot food in the café as a result of not having sufficient power.

Gibson Mill also has no connection to the sewerage system, so its toilets are composting toilets. Below the toilets are huge vats filled with worms, who digest our waste for us. It’s feasible at this scale because it’s a tourist attraction, and the alternative of laying pipes would be more expensive.

Conclusion – staying mostly on-grid

So, in summary: going totally off-grid would be difficult, although coming off the gas grid is achievable and something that we want to do eventually. We don’t live in a very remote area, and so going off-grid with electricity and/or water wouldn’t really make sense. Even if we could find the means to generate our own electricity, the upfront costs of installing the required equipment would probably outweigh the potential savings.

Two years of solar

A screenshot of the Solax iOS app showing our solar panel usage and estimated savings.

We’ve now had our solar panels for two years, so it’s probably time to review how much money they have saved us, and how close we are to getting a return on investment.

We have a SolaX system, which includes twelve 400 Watt solar panels, an inverter and battery. I’m using SolaX’s app to estimate how much money this saves us, based on the electricity unit prices from the grid, and also the amount that we get paid for exporting surplus electricity under the Smart Export Guarantee.

I’ve included a screenshot taken a couple of weeks ago. We only saved around five pence that day, as the solar panels spent most of the day under a thick blanket of snow. But you can see that, in total, we’ve saved around £1600 in two years.

I should note, however, that whilst this averages out at £800 per year, last year we actually saved closer to £900. Alas, 2024 was a less sunny year, on the whole, and so our solar panels couldn’t work as hard.

The total cost of the system was around £11,000, so after two years, we’ve recouped 14% of our outlay. Had 2024 been as sunny as 2023, then this would have been closed to 16%. Assuming that we have more years like 2023, then we should break even in around 10 years time. That’s a long way away, but we’ll still be paying the mortgage on the house then, and we have no plans to move.

Since we had our solar panels fitted, prices have dropped significantly, and so a comparable system to ours would probably cost closer to £9000. You could argue that we should have waited a little longer to get our system installed, but back in 2023, energy prices were at an all-time high. Still, it does mean that the economics of getting solar panels fitted now is even better than it was.

Most of the money that we used to pay for the solar panels was either savings, or money gifted to us by my parents. However, we did borrow around £4000 to cover the rest of the cost, and still have some of that to pay off. Provided that we don’t have any more major expenses (I’m glaring at our car as I write this), we should have this paid off this coming spring.

How to make the most of your solar panels

This is a guide that I’ve put together based on around nine months’ experience with having solar panels on our roof, and some wise guidance from third parties. It’s going to be very UK-centric, because that’s where I live, but hopefully some of the advice will apply even if you live elsewhere.

If you don’t have solar panels, then some of this advice may still be useful – quite a lot of it is general energy saving advice, and will apply even if you don’t have the means to generate your own electricity. And some if it is worth following if you’re considering solar panels in the future, as there are some lifestyle changes that could benefit you more if you have solar panels installed.

Principles

There are some underlying principles to most of the advice on here – so consider this to be a high level summary. Essentially, you want to:

  1. Maximise your energy use during the daytime, when it’s sunny.
  2. Use electricity to heat things, rather than mains gas.
  3. Minimise energy wastage.

Here’s why they’re important:

Maximise daytime energy usage

Simply put: you want to prioritise your energy use when it’s free. That means doing tasks like washing and drying clothes, cooking and charging electric vehicles when it’s light outside and your panels are generating electricity.

Using electricity to heat things

Your solar panels will help you reduce the amount of electricity that you need to use from the electricity grid (and therefore save money) but they won’t help with your gas bills – unless, you switch to using electricity rather than gas to heat things.

Minimise energy wastage

This is all about having efficient electric devices and appliances. Your solar panels will probably be able to generate about 3.5 kW in full, direct sunlight, based on a typical installation. But that’s not going to help much if you regularly use appliances which require more than that; or, for example, if you have lots of old and inefficient light bulbs switched on.

Cooking

When we cook things, we use heat, and in UK homes, that heat normally comes either from burning gas or using electricity. As I mentioned above, having solar panels means that you need to focus on using electricity to heat things to take advantage of them. So, if you have a gas cooker, you’re not going to benefit as much from solar panels as you would do if you have an electric oven and hob – especially an induction hob which is more energy efficient.

Clearly, buying a whole new hob and oven is a big expense, especially if they’re built in to your kitchen. So, if you still have a gas hob, consider alternatives:

  • Ikea sell free-standing electric induction hobs that can be plugged into a standard wall socket – a two zone hob costs about £90 and has the benefit of being portable.
  • Could you use a microwave instead of an oven? Even if you have an electric oven, microwaves use significantly less energy – a typical microwave needs 800–900 watts, as opposed to an oven which can require 2000 watts. Plus, they will typically cook your food more quickly, and don’t need to be pre-heated, thus using even less energy.
  • An air fryer is worth considering as well, for the same reason as a microwave – you can get crispy food faster and using less energy than you would in an oven. I know Jay Rayner isn’t a fan but lots of people swear by them, although we haven’t yet bought one ourselves.
  • Consider using a slow cooker. Whilst they’re not suited for all meals, you can start them during the day when it’s daylight. This means that you do most of the cooking whilst your solar panels are generating energy, and so you’ll minimise the amount of grid energy that you’ll need. This is especially useful in winter, when it’s often dark when people finish work. And overall, they can use less energy than quicker cooking methods. We’ve cooked several great slow cooker recipes from the Bored of Lunch cookbook (affiliate link) and it’s great coming home from work knowing that your dinner is already just about ready to serve.
  • You could also consider using a pressure cooker, such as an Instant Pot – again, the pressure means that you can reduce the cooking time and use less energy. Most models also have a ‘keep warm’ function so you could cook your food mid-afternoon during daylight, and then have it still warm a couple of hours later for dinner. All Instant Pot models can double as a slow cooker, and the newer models incorporate an air fryer too.
  • If you bake your own bread, then an automatic bread maker may also save money compared with baking in a standard oven, due to the smaller space needed to be heated. And you can use a time delay function on some modes, so that you’re using at a time when the panels are generating the most energy.

Washing up

When it comes to washing up pots and pans, consider boiling an electric kettle and mixing this with cold water, rather than using the hot tap, if you have gas for central heating and hot water.

If you have a dishwasher, consult the manual to see if it has a time delay function. That way, you can load it in the morning, and then have it come on later in the day when there’s more daylight. We have a ‘smart’ dishwasher from Bosch, which comes with an app that allows you to tell it to start at a specific time using your phone. Also, make use of any ‘eco’ settings that it has – it’ll take longer, but use less energy overall.

Clothes washing

Some washing machines have both cold and hot water inlets, so, if you can, have a look at how it’s been plumbed in. If both are plumbed in, and you use gas to heat your hot water, find out if you can disable it, or have it isolated, so your machine only uses cold water that it heats itself using electricity.

Where possible, wash clothes at a lower temperature. Most laundry detergents work fine at 30ºC, although you may find that your washing cycles take longer. Some clothes may even wash well at 20ºC. You should, however, use your machine at 60ºC every couple of months or so, as lower temperature washes don’t kill all germs; prolonged use of cold washes can result in mould growing in your machine.

As with dishwashers, if your washing machine has an ‘eco mode’, use it – again, it may lengthen the washing cycle but should use less energy overall.

Drying clothes

The cheapest way to dry your clothes is arguably outside on a washing line, but this may not be an option that’s open to you – you might not have a suitable outdoor space, or it’s raining.

Tumble dryers have a reputation of being very energy-hungry, and that is true of many older models, but the newest heat pump models are much more efficient. So if you’re in the market for a new tumble dryer, consider a heat pump one – you will pay a higher price upfront, but their energy use is much lower than condenser types, and in a different league to the oldest models. Indeed, they can use less energy than electric heated clothes drying racks, which are often touted as cheaper alternatives.

As it happens, I have both a heat pump dryer and a heated clothes rack, because not all of our clothes can be tumble-dried (always check the label!). However, the heat pump tumble dryer is much quicker, and tends to use less energy overall.

Showers

On the one hand, having an electric shower, rather than one that uses gas-heated hot water, seems like good advice when you can generate your own electricity. However, electric power showers use a lot of energy – pretty much the maximum 7 kW that a single phase electrical supply can provide. The typical maximum output of a solar system is 3.5 kW, so even if it’s a brilliantly sunny afternoon, your panels are only going to be able to provide half the energy required. On weekdays, our household typically has our showers before 7am, so in the winter it’s still dark, ergo no solar energy.

However, in summer, when the water temperature is higher, you can use your shower’s eco mode, if it has one, to lower its energy usage. And having shorter showers will save money too (especially if you have a water meter). You could also consider shifting your showers to a different time of day, although personally I find that having a shower first thing helps me wake up. Some workplaces also offer showers for staff to use, if you’re happy to wait until you get to work to have a shower.

If you have a battery system at home, then this may help reduce how much grid energy your shower uses, if you have showers when it’s typically dark.

Electric cars

One of the biggest selling points of an electric car is that you can charge it at home whilst you’re not using it, rather than having to find a petrol station to refuel. And, having solar panels means that you can use electricity you’ve generated yourself to charge your car, thus saving even more money.

However, as with electric power showers, a standard home charger port will output around 7 kW, and this will probably be more than your panels can output (unless you have a very big roof). If you haven’t already had a charger port installed, consider buying one where you can vary the charging rate, so that you don’t use as much grid energy. This will mean that your car charges more slowly, but it’ll cost less money. It may also be that you can control how fast your car charges using controls inside the car, or on a phone app.

And, as with many other things mentioned in this article, choosing when to charge your car is also important. Having it on charge in the afternoon, when the sunlight is strongest, will mean that you make the most of your solar energy.

Heating

Most British houses use gas for heating. I’m sure in 50 years time, we’ll look back and wonder why on earth we used to pump a massively flammable fossil fuel into peoples’ homes, but for now you’ll probably use gas to power a water boiler which then pumps hot water around your home.

Heat pumps are probably the best replacement for gas boilers – they’re about three times more efficient than boilers and are powered by electricity – which is great if you’re generating your own solar energy. And, provided that you don’t also have a gas stove, then you may be able get your gas supply disconnected – that way, you won’t have to pay the daily standing charge. But heat pumps are expensive – even with government support, you’re looking at several thousand pounds. Our gas boiler was only replaced 7 years ago and has only just come out of warranty, so a heat pump is very much a future ambition for us.

Furthermore, heat pumps won’t be suitable for all properties; you’ll need a separate hot water cylinder (annoying we removed ours when we had our combi boiler fitted) and the heat pump typically sits outside your house like an air conditioning unit does.

So, if a heat pump isn’t an option, then there are other things you could consider:

Lifestyle changes

Something that I’ve alluded to above is about timing – running power hungry appliances at the time when you’re generating the most power. This tends to be afternoons, and so it helps if you are at home in the afternoon to be able to switch devices on at the right time. So, if your job is flexible enough to allow it, being able to work from home one or two days a week will help you make the most of the times when your panels are outputting the most electricity. I’m lucky that my job can be done either at home or in an office and so I’m able to work flexibly, and on the days when I’m at home, I use my lunch breaks to put the washing machine on, start the dishwasher, load the dryer, set the slow cooker going, and so on.

We don’t yet have an electric car, but being able to charge at home during the day whilst working, will be cheaper than using a public charger.

Solar battery systems

Many companies that offer solar panels will also offer to fit a battery at the same time. They’re about the size of a mini tower PC from the 1990s, and a typical battery will provide up to 5 kW of power.

These batteries let you store any electricity that your panels generate for later use, rather than exporting it directly to the grid – although you can still do that once the battery is fully charged. Because you get significantly less money back for the energy you sell to the grid, than you do for the electricity that you buy from the grid, having a battery can help you save money.

They’re particularly helpful in winter, as they help to reduce your energy usage at teatime, and in the spring and summer months, you may find that your battery is able to meet your household’s energy needs overnight, to the extent that you use little or no grid energy at all during the middle months of the year. Indeed, last summer, there were several days where our only electricity ‘usage’ for certain sunny days was to pay the daily standing charge.

The other benefit of having a battery in your home is resilience in the case of a power cut. I’m writing this just after Storm Babet blew its way across the UK and Ireland in October 2023, and knowing that we would have a battery to fall back on was re-assuring. As it was, we didn’t lose power on this occasion. And it’s worth noting that the way our battery system is set up, it won’t automatically take over in the event of a power cut; we instead have two sockets in our cellar that we can use that run solely from the battery. Which means that we would need to run some long extension cables to the fridge/freezer and any other appliances that we needed to run until the power comes back on.

It’s worth noting that battery systems are expensive – typically adding around £5000 to a solar panel installation. MoneySavingExpert reckons that the economic case isn’t quite there for them yet, but we have one, and it makes sense to have it installed at the same time as your panels. As battery technology continues to improve, hopefully prices will come down.

Going fully off-grid

A decent sized solar system, combined with a battery, may mean that you can go weeks at a time without using any energy from the electricity grid. So it may be tempting to consider going completely ‘off grid’ – as in permanently disconnecting from the electricity grid and only using energy you’ve generated yourself.

The argument in favour of this is the ‘standing charge’, which is a bit like line rental for a landline phone. You pay this daily charge – we currently pay about 60p per day – to be connected to the electricity grid, regardless of how much energy you use or sell back. If you’re not on the grid, then you don’t need to pay this, saving about £220 per year.

But I think there are stronger arguments against going off-grid. Firstly, unless you have a larger than average solar system and a big battery, you will almost certainly run out of electricity in the winter months. Britain just doesn’t get enough sunlight on enough days all year round. You could consider adding a small wind turbine, but this won’t help on dull days with no wind; ideally, to go completely off grid, you need to have several ways of generating power that can compensate for each other if one is unavailable.

The second reason is that you’ll lose the ability to sell back your excess energy to the grid, under the Smart Export Guarantee. Depending on your energy supplier, this can be up to 15p per kWh, and on sunny days where you’re not using much yourself, this can net you £2–3 – more than the standing charge. Indeed, our savings in three months (during winter and spring) exceeded the annual cost of the standing charge.

The return on investment

A solar panel installation will typically cost between £5000 and £7000 – plus more if you opt for a battery as well. Our system, which has a 4.8 kW solar capacity and a similarly sized battery, cost just shy of £11,000 to install, and it took most of one day to fit. In the 9 months since installation, our estimated savings are around £800 so far – that’s both money saved by not using grid energy, and money earned from selling excess energy back to the grid. We’re approaching winter here in the northern hemisphere and so by the time the one year anniversary of our panels installation rolls around, I would expect us to have saved not quite £1000. This means we should be on track to recoup our investment within 14 years – about the same time that the mortgage on our house matures.

We’re doing many of the things detailed above to try to save more money faster, and it’s worth noting that UK energy prices have recently fallen from the highs of last winter, so there could be some variation in the time taken to recoup our outlays.

The environmental argument

Throughout this piece, I have focussed on the economic case for solar panels, and how to save money. But having solar panels isn’t just about cutting energy bills – you’re also contributing to de-carbonisation of the energy grid, and hopefully reducing the impact of climate change.

The app that connects to our inverter (the appliance which converts the DC output from the solar panels into AC electricity, and interfaces with the battery) not only estimates how much money you’re saving, but also how much less CO2 your energy use is releasing into the atmosphere.

Whilst I’m unsure of what assumptions it is making, it reckons that we’ve reduced our carbon footprint by over 3.5 tonnes in 9 months.

Although the completion of several massive offshore wind farms now means that the UK typically generates more than half of its electricity from renewables, we still burn a lot of gas to generate electricity. The more people who adopt solar, the sooner those gas-fired power stations can close.

Energy security

I’ve mentioned our battery system offering some resilience in case of power cuts, but making greater use of solar panels, wind turbines and hydro-electric schemes also helps the country retain energy independence. This is something that the war in Ukraine has put into sharp focus, and revealed just how many European countries were reliant on importing oil and gas from Russia. Having lots of micro-generation of electricity spread right across the country reduces the risk of power cuts caused by gas pipelines and interconnector cables being cut, or power stations going offline.

Conclusion

If you have solar panels, or some other means of generating your own electricity, then I hope that the above is helpful to you. And even if you don’t, some of the advice I’ve suggested may help you save money. Energy prices have come down from their highs during the winter of 2022–23, but they’re still much higher than they used to be only 3–4 years ago, and are not showing signs of falling back to those levels any time soon. So, if you have invested in solar, or are considering it, hopefully these suggestions will help you make the most of your energy saving, carbon reducing panels.

This post originally appeared on Medium.

Solar, so good

A photo of the solar inverter and battery in our cellar.

So, after spending thousands of pounds on a new kitchen, you would think that we’re done with home improvements for a while.

Erm, no. Because even though we’re not yet at the end of January, we’ve used the last of our savings, some money from The Bank of Mum and Dad, and a small amount of new borrowing to pay for the installation of solar panels.

I would show you a photo of them, but that’s hard to do without also sharing a photo of our house, which I’m loathed to do publicly. Instead, here’s a photo of the interior kit – namely, the inverter and the battery.

The battery is an optional add-on to solar systems and is designed to offer additional off-grid power at the time when the solar panels aren’t working – i.e. dull days or at night. It can store up to 6 kWh of electricity, and there’s a pair of plug sockets that are attached to the battery, meaning that we have backup electricty in the event of a mains grid power cut.

Here are our reasons for having a solar panel installation:

Saving money

Energy prices have increased everywhere recently, but especially in the UK where many of our power stations work by burning natural gas. Gas prices were already on the rise when Russia declared war on the Ukraine, and pushed prices even higher as countries started to reduce their reliance on Russian gas. So, switching to a renewable source of power that doesn’t cost money to generate (once the panels are installed and paid for) seems like a good idea.

A screenshot of the Solax Cloud app on iOS, showing our solar system

January is a bit of an odd time to have them installed, though. The days are short, and we only get about 6 hours of usable daylight for generating electricity as I write this – normally 9:30am until 3:30pm. Yes, it’s light from around 8am but the sun needs to have moved around sufficiently to be shining onto the panels to get more than just a few watts of power.

Last week was very, very cold but with clear, sunny afternoons. That was enough for the panels to generate around 2.5 kW – and normally, when I’m working at home without any appliances on (e.g. washing machine, dishwasher, cooker etc.) we only use about 250 W of power. So, that’s a lot of overflow to also charge the battery and there were several days where it was fully charged at sunset. That then gave us enough power for teatime and up until beyond bedtime, meaning that we weren’t paying for grid energy.

Right now, it’s saving us between £1 and £2 per day, depending on the weather and how much energy we’re using. Our savings will increase soon, once we have our Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS) certificate, which will allow us to be recompensed for the excess energy that we can sell back to the mains grid under the Smart Export Guarantee. Realistically it’ll be the end of next month before this is up and running, but it means that, once the battery is fully charged, we can make a bit of money back. Not much – at best, we can earn about 16p for kWh at present, which is less than half the 34 kWh we pay to use electricity – but we would already be a few pounds up by now if it had already been in place.

The app which links to the inverter can be configured to calculate your savings, so we have an idea of how much money we’re saving.

Doing our bit for the environment

You may choose to believe that climate change isn’t real, but I’m convinced, along with something like 99% of climate scientists that it is happening. So having solar panels means that we can actually do something tangible about it. Whilst renewable energy sources are forming an increasing proportion of Britain’s mains grid energy mix, burning natural gas is still the source of the majority of our electricity, and there are CO2 emissions involved. Also, gas supplies are finite, and so regardless of whether you believe in climate change, there will come a point when we run out of gas, or have to go to greater lengths to access it. Again, the inverter’s app approximates how much CO2 we’re saving, which is over 50kg in just over a week. I reckon that’ll be half a tonne by the end of the year, which seems like a staggering amount for just one household.

We are, of course, parents, and so by doing our bit, we can show our seven-year-old that we care about the planet that they’ll inherit.

International Geopolitics

I’ve mentioned Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, and I suppose this could be a small act of solidarity with the Ukrainian people. Whilst Britain only sources a small amount of its gas from Russia, if that could be reduced to zero then that’s a lot of money that Russia isn’t getting to fuel its war machine. I’d like to think we’re helping, even if it’s only a tiny contribution.

Resilience

I mentioned above that, attached to the battery, are a pair of plug sockets which draw power only from the battery. If there’s a power cut, then these sockets will still provide power, so long as there’s some charge left in the battery. Indeed, the inverter normally avoids depleting the battery completely – typically it’ll leave 10-20% charge behind.

Even it’s sunny and the panels are generating, should the mains grid go offline (i.e. we get a power cut), then unfortunately all the regular sockets and lights in our house will go off too. But this extra pair of sockets will keep going, and so we could, for example, run a long extension cable up from the cellar to the freezer, to keep that going. We’ve had a couple of short power cuts in recent months, but these have been no more than 10 minutes at a time thankfully.

What to consider if you want solar panels

Our system cost a low five figure sum to install, and was done by a local firm. We got three quotes and all were almost exactly the same, so this seemed to be the going rate. There’s a great guide on MoneySavingExpert about whether they’re worth it, and I suggest that you also read that, as well as my own experiences.

These are things you need to consider:

  • You need a pro-dominantly south-facing roof; ours faces south-west, which is okay but not perfect. If your roofs point east or west, then solar panels probably aren’t for you.
  • You will get more out of solar panels if you can use the energy whilst it’s sunny. So, you’ll need to use the delayed start on power hungry devices like tumble dryers and dishwashers, so that you’re using them when the panels are working. If you work at home, you may benefit more, and especially if you have an electric or plug-in hybrid car that you can charge at home during daylight hours.
  • Solar panels will help with electricity, but not with your gas bill. So, you’ll get less of a benefit if you have a gas oven, or if you don’t have an immersion heater in your hot water tank. Annoyingly, in hindsight, we ripped out our hot water tank in 2016 and replaced it with a combi gas boiler, although as part of our kitchen renovations, we bought new electric hobs and ovens. Conversely, if your heating and hot water is electrically-powered, perhaps using a heat pump rather than a gas boiler, you could benefit more from solar panels.
  • In a similar vein, to maximise your savings, you may consider boiling an electric kettle for hot water for washing up, or using an electric shower to fill a bath. Using a slow cooker during daylight hours may be more economical than a cooker in the evening.
  • The return on investment period for solar panels is about 11 years, so it’s probably best to install them in a house where you don’t plan to move any time soon.
  • It’s probably best not to borrow all of the money for solar panels. Whilst you can save hundreds of pounds per year, through less usage and selling back your excess to the grid, the interest payments on any borrowings will extend the return on investment period. We’re borrowing around £4000 to fund the panels, which I’m funding using a credit card balance transfer to keep the interest down, but the rest was savings and a parental gift.
  • You probably won’t need planning permission, unless your house is a listed building or you live in a conservation area.

I’ll aim to post again in the summer, once our Smart Export Guarantee is set up and we have some sunnier weather, to indicate how much we’re saving.

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