App review: Octo-Aid

A screenshot of the Octo-Aid app

If you’re an Octopus Energy customer, then you should consider downloading Octo-Aid. It’s a smartphone app that links to your Octopus Energy account, and analyses the data from your meters to give you insights.

To use it, you need to:

  • be an Octopus Energy customer
  • have a working smart meter

I downloaded Octo-Aid ages ago, but as our electric smart meter stopped working last year, I’ve had to wait until it was fixed in January to give the app a proper review. Happily, this coincided with a re-design of the app, which now looks more like a standard iOS app. Before, it looked like a rather quick port from another platform – even though it’s iOS only. For Android users, there’s a different but unrelated app called OctoTracker.

Linking your Octopus account to Octo-Aid

To access your data, you’ll need your Octopus Energy API key. You can get this here; I’d suggest saving it somewhere as you may need it for other things. For example, I use mine with the SolaX app, and for the Octopus Energy Home Assistant integration. So, I have it saved in 1Password, alongside my Octopus Energy account information.

You can only have one API key per account, and once it’s generated, Octopus won’t show you the full key again. If you don’t have it saved somewhere, you’ll need to regenerate it and then re-link any services to your account.

Once you’ve copied and pasted your API key into Octo-Aid, it’ll start downloading your data. This may take a couple of minutes if you’re running Octo-Aid for the first time, as it’ll download a lot of historical data. In future, it should open more quickly. Whilst you wait, Octo-Aid will show you a little cephalopod-themed joke.

Data analytics

So what can Octo-Aid tell you about your energy usage? Well, it can compare your usage with previous days, weeks and months, and whether you’re using more or less. It can also give you a forecast of how much you may use for the rest of the month. There’s also an estimate of your home’s ‘base load’ – how much power your always-on devices need. These are things like your fridge and freezer, or devices that have a standby mode. Because Octo-Aid has access to your tariff information, it’ll also tell you how much this is costing you.

If you have some way of exporting electricity, such as solar panels, a battery or a wind turbine, then Octo-Aid will also display this data and include it in its cost calculations.

If you’re lucky enough to have an Octopus Home Mini, then this data will be in almost real-time for your electricity meter, and on a half hour delay for gas. We don’t have one yet (I’ve signed up for the waiting list but not heard anything) and so our data for the previous day normally appears around lunchtime.

Tariff comparisons

A really useful feature of Octo-Aid is to be able to compare Octopus Energy’s tariffs, based on your actual usage data. Octopus has a wider range of more advanced tariffs than its rivals, including its Tracker and Agile tariffs where electricity costs can vary daily or half-hourly respectively. It also offers specialist electric vehicle charging tariffs that can integrate with your home charger, if you drive a supported vehicle and have a supported charger installed. In our case, our car is supported, but our charger isn’t yet.

Octo-Aid was able to tell us that we’re on the best gas and export tariffs, but that Octopus Intelligent Go would be cheaper for us for electricity. Unfortunately, this is one that requires a compatible charger, and so I’m on a waiting list for that too. With energy prices likely to shoot up soon, and the withdrawal of many fixed tariffs last month, it’s worth using Octo-Aid to see if another tariff would be cheaper.

Budgets

There’s also a budgets tab in Octo-Aid, where you can set maximum monthly spends. You can set these yourself, or let Octo-Aid suggest values for you. You can then track how your energy usage compares to the budget. There’s some nice graphs, which overlay your current usage with the previous month. As we’re in spring, and it’s (mostly) getting warmer and sunnier, we’re obviously using a bit less.

Other tools in Octo-Aid

Octo-Aid includes an electric vehicle charge planner. You’ll need to tell it your car’s charge rate and maximum battery capacity, and then it’ll tell you when it will be cheapest to charge. You can even tell Octo-Aid to pop up a reminder notification when it’s time to start charging.

We’re on a fixed tariff, and so the cost doesn’t really vary for us unless it’s really sunny. But if you’re on one of Octopus Energy’s time of use or electric vehicle tariffs, then this is potentially quite useful.

Overall, it’s a handy little app, and it’s free to download and use. If you’re not already an Octopus Energy customer, here’s my referral link to join – we’ve been with them since 2023 and they’ve been better than any other provider that we’ve used. The referral link gives you £50 off once you’ve paid your first bill by direct debit, and I’ll get the same. That being said, Octopus has almost 25% market share in the UK now (not bad for a 10 year old company) so I’d be surprised if many of you reading this aren’t already customers.

PowerCalc for Home Assistant

Screenshot of the energy dashboard in Home Assistant with some data provided by PowerCalc

One of the features I like about Home Assistant is its Energy dashboard. It can analyse and display various data about power and energy usage in your home – provided that you have the correct sensors available. As we have solar panels, our inverter provides lots of live data via a local API that we can use.

We also have a number of energy monitoring smart plugs that track energy usage. We have a couple of Meross plugs, and a couple of cheap Tuya Zigbee plugs. Home Assistant can then display the power usage of these devices, and so you can see where your energy is going.

But we can’t fit these onto every device. For example, devices like our oven, hub and dishwasher are all built-in, and don’t use standard 3-pin plug sockets. We could have smart relays fitted, but that would be a paid job for an electrician. So, instead, there’s a potential software solution, in the form of PowerCalc.

PowerCalc is a custom integration that you can install from HACS. Once set up, you can use PowerCalc to estimate the power usage of your devices, or use its extensive library where other users have provided this data already. Indeed, when I installed PowerCalc, it automatically added entries for our various Google Home smart speakers. Once added, these appear as additional entities attached to your existing devices, which is nice – they don’t appear as separate devices.

You can then add these entities to your energy dashboard, to see where your electricity usage goes. Here’s a Sankey graph from last week from our house; it was quite a dull day with little solar generation. There’s a lot that we can’t track, but you can see that a significant amount of our energy usage was spent drying clothes.

PowerCalc gets regular updates, with new devices being added all the time. And, of course, you can add these yourself, if you have the means to record the energy usage. The energy usage data also updates in realtime, so you could add the data to a dashboard and see how changing the brightness of a bulb affects its calculated energy usage.

Energy monitoring over Matter

A photo of a Meross energy monitoring smart plug in a UK plug socket

Back in April last year, I bought a pair of Meross energy monitoring smart plugs (sponsored link). I’d chosen them because they supported Matter, and so could be easily added to Home Assistant, Google Home and Apple Home all at the same time. However, I lamented that their Matter support was limited to turning them on and off; the energy monitoring data wasn’t available through Matter. That has now changed.

If you have these plugs, or are looking at buying them, here’s how to get energy monitoring over Matter into Home Assistant:

Step 1: Update the Firmware

Firstly, you’ll need to open the Meross app on your phone, and ensure that the smart plug is linked to the app. Next, you’ll need to do a firmware update – this is located on the user tab, for some reason. The firmware update should take a couple of minutes.

A screenshot of the Home Assistant interface, showing the settings for the Meross energy monitoring smart plug and the 're-interview device' option.

Step 2: Re-interview your smart plugs

Originally, the way I found out that this was working was because one of my plugs had stopped working, and needed a factory reset. I then had to remove and re-add it to Home Assistant, Google Home and Apple Home. When I re-added it to Home Assistant, that was when I found that it now supported energy monitoring over Matter, as the power, wattage, voltage and current for the smart plug now appeared in the device settings.

The good news is that you don’t need to remove and re-add the device. Instead, you can ‘re-interview’ the device. Open it up in Home Assistant’s device settings, and then click the three dots next to ‘Share device’, and then ‘Re-interview device’. Home Assistant will then attempt to find out what capabilities the device has, and should add the new entities for you.

Step 3: Uninstall the Meross LAN custom integration

Now that Home Assistant can receive the energy monitoring data over Matter, you shouldn’t need the Meross LAN integration from HACS anymore. You’ll need to amend any existing automations that use the Meross LAN entities (I use this energy monitoring blueprint), and then remove the devices before uninstalling it through HACS. This was one of the integrations that was causing the biggest slowdowns in my Home Assistant, and it seems to be more responsive now that I’ve removed it.

The key advantage of using energy monitoring over Matter is that the data remains local to your home network. Otherwise, you’re sending and receiving data to Meross’ servers (unless you’ve managed to reconfigure them to use a local MQTT broker like Mosquitto). That also means that, if those servers go down or Meross withdraws support, you would no longer get energy monitoring data. Switching to Matter should therefore give your smart home system more resilience.

Well this weather is rather lovely

A photo of some trees with plenty of blossom

It’s been a particularly good Spring, hasn’t it? Lots and lots of sunshine, warm daytime temperatures, and almost no rain. It’s almost like the lovely Spring that we had in 2020, but without the lockdown restrictions. As such, we’ve been able to enjoy it a bit more.

As solar panel owners, it’s been particularly welcome. In March, our solar panel system saved us £50 by not needing to import energy from the grid, and we exported another £25 of excess electricity. And this month, despite us not being halfway through yet, we’ve already exported £25 of electricity. Overall, we’ve certainly exported far more than we’ve used from the grid. However, we’re having some issues with our smart electric meter not reporting usage, and so I’m not able to properly quantify this yet.

Although it’s been cold at nights, we’re still using less gas and electric than we would typically use at this time of year thanks to the nice weather. It’s been warmer during the day, and we’ve been able to dry more laundry outside too. We haven’t used our heated drying rack for a few weeks now.

Energy prices

Speaking of energy prices, I’m hoping that this will mean that Ofgem’s Energy Price Cap will go down when it changes again in July. The warmer weather should have reduced the use of gas central heating, and the increased contribution of solar energy will have reduced the amount of gas that’s burned to generate electricity. Seeing as it’s mainly wholesale gas prices that drive the price cap calculations, reduced demand for gas will hopefully see the price cap fall.

Hosepipe bans

It’s been that long since it rained that I can’t remember the last wet day that we had. Which has been good for getting out and about, but not so good for keeping the reservoirs topped up. Rain is forecast for next week, but if the general trend is for lots of hot dry days, then I wouldn’t be surprised if we end up with a hosepipe ban in the summer.

If you want to plan now for a hosepipe ban and don’t already have a water butt to store excess rainwater, consider getting one from Save Water Save Money. Pop your postcode in to find out if you can get one subsidised by your water company. They’re at least £10 cheaper than elsewhere, as long as you’re prepared to wait around six weeks for delivery. We haven’t invested in one yet (we need additional work doing on our guttering) but it’s something to consider.

One thing we have bought in response to the warm weather has been a portable air conditioning unit. British homes are not typically built with air conditioning systems (and our house is around 100 years old in any case). Whilst the nights have been cold, I’m fully expecting that, if this good weather continues, there will be some hot nights on the way. A standard pedestal fan can help keep you cool by blowing away sweat, but it can’t cool the air in a room. Once it’s arrived and I’ve had time to evaluate it, I’ll do a blog post.

Could our house go off-grid?

We’ve had our solar panels for a couple of years now, and, as a thought experiment, I’ve wondered if it would be possible to go ‘off grid‘. This would mean having no connection to the electricity and gas networks, and potentially the water network too.

Now, I’m very much aware that this is a classic example of Betteridge’s Law of Headlines, and indeed, the short version of this is pretty much, ‘no’ when it comes to electricity and water. Especially if the person reading this is my wife, Christine (love you sweetheart). It is intended to be a thought experiment after all.

Getting off the gas grid

We’ll start with the easiest one – getting off the gas grid. This is actually a long-term of ours, and many homes are now getting disconnected from the gas grid.

When we bought our house, which will have been 10 years ago this summer, it was a very gas-reliant house. There were three gas fires, a gas central heating boiler and water tank, and a gas cooker. We got two of the gas fires out before we’d even moved in, and the remaining one followed when we had the very old gas boiler replaced with a more energy efficient condensing boiler in 2016. Next to go was the gas cooker, when we had the kitchen renovated in 2022, so now we only need gas for heating and hot water.

Now our boiler isn’t quite nine years old, but it’s likely to have a few years left in at least. When it’s due for replacement, our plan is to switch to an air source heat pump, which will be electrically powered. That will mean there’s no need for a gas connection to our home, and we can have it completely removed. As well as meaning that we don’t need to pay the daily gas standing charge, we’ll no longer have pipes carrying an invisible and highly flammable gas running into our home. And it’ll reduce our carbon footprint too.

Off-grid electricity

So that’s the easy one out of the way. Going off grid for electricity, however, is likely to be much harder.

We’ve made a start, at least, with our solar panels. In the summer months, with longer days and more sunlight, we generally generate enough to be self-sufficient. We also have a battery attached to the system, so the solar panels can charge the battery during the day, and then the house can run off the battery overnight.

However, at this time of year, we are very much not self-sufficient. This is especially true as I write this on a very dull Sunday afternoon, where our solar panels are contributing a mere 7 watts of power. That’s about enough to run a couple of LED light bulbs, but certainly not enough for our freezer, for example. We would therefore need other ways of generating electricity on dull days, or at night.

Turbine or not turbine

I’m old enough to remember when Britain was reliant on burning coal for electricity, but last year we shut down our last remaining coal-fired power station. Nowadays, wind power is the most dominant source of energy (you can see a live dashboard here). So, we could consider adding a wind turbine, giving us a second source of energy at home.

Ovo Energy have a useful guide here. Generally speaking, a roof-mounted turbine would be capable of generating 1-2 kW of electricity, which is less than half the peak capacity of our solar system. And that’s based on a lot of assumptions about wind speed that may or may not apply to your property.

As well as the installation cost, we would probably also need planning permission, as our house isn’t detached. We’re therefore looking at around £2000-3000, and it would probably take quite some time to recoup that investment.

Dull days with no wind

So, a solar system backed up with a wind turbine might cover our electricity needs. Unless it’s a dull day and there’s no wind.

I’m in a few Facebook groups for people who use Home Assistant and who have solar and battery systems, and quite a few other members have the Agile Octopus tariff. On this tariff, electricity prices change by the half hour, based on wholesale prices. If it’s forecast to be a particularly sunny and windy day, electricity prices can be very low. Indeed, they occasionally go negative – in other words, Octopus will actually pay you to take electricity out of the grid, rather than the other way round. It’s great for people who have battery systems that can charge from the grid, or who can plan their days to use more electricity at the times when it’s cheap.

Though we are Octopus Energy customers, we’re not on Agile Octopus, because prices can also shoot up on dull days with no wind. Our fixed tariff means we pay 21.10p/kWh, regardless of the weather, but on Agile Octopus, the electricity unit price can go up as high as £1 per kWh. And if you haven’t been able to charge up your home battery by then, it could get very costly.

As an aside, if you’re not already an Octopus Energy customer, here’s my referral link. You get £50 off your bill if you join, and their customer service is better than any other energy company that we’ve been with so far. There’s also an unofficial Home Assistant integration that uses their API.

Therefore, if we were to disconnect from the grid, we would need a third source of electricity. This is where it gets a bit more tricky. The options I have looked up so far include:

  • A wood burning stove, with a thermoelectric generator. However, in my research, I’ve yet to find anywhere in the UK that would sell such a system. And those that I have seen for home use would only be able to generate a few watts – not even enough for our house’s ‘base load’ (fridge, freezer, devices on standby etc). We have a chimney that we could use, but we would also need filters to stop particulate matter getting into the air.
  • Some form of hydro generation using water collected from rainfall on our roof. This would only really work when it rains; although we live in the Pennines where it rains quite a bit, I doubt this would power much more than a couple of light bulbs.
  • Therefore, we would probably have to fall back on a diesel generator, which would be noisy, smelly, and not good for local air quality or the environment.

No Smart Export Guarantee

The other benefit to being on the electricity grid is that you can be paid back for any excess electricity that you export. Even though it’s January, we’ve exported around £1 of electricity this month, and that’s only after our battery has been fully charged. In June last year, we were paid £46 for the electricity we exported, against £36 for the grid energy that we used. So that was a net payment to us that month. Indeed, over the whole of 2024, we were paid £227 for the excess electricity that we exported.

If we’re not on the grid, then we can’t export. So if our battery is full, that electricity is essentially being wasted. Of course, if I was serious about going off-grid, then I would probably invest in another battery to prevent this from happening, but then that’s another expense.

What about water?

Going off the water grid would be the most difficult. Although ironically, we’ve been inadvertently off the water grid four times so far this month, due to supply issues. I have an active complaint with Yorkshire Water about that, but let’s imagine that I want to willingly disconnect from the water grid for a moment.

Clearly, we would need some other way of getting clean water into the house. Rainwater is the most obvious, but we would then need somewhere to store it. In 2023, I read The Climate Change Garden (sponsored link) by Sally Morgan and Kim Stoddart, and the book shows you how you can store water in tanks underneath your garden to cope with water shortages. During the 2022 heatwave, we had a hosepipe ban for several months, and so I’m considering whether to get a water butt to store rain water for use in the garden. You may be eligible for a subsidised water butt from Save Water Save Money – you’ll need to pop in your postcode to see if your water company participates.

But even a butt, or huge tanks under our lawn, are unlikely to be sufficient. We would ideally need to have access to a constant flow of running water, such as a stream. And we would need the means to filter the water so that it’s fit for drinking.

And what about sewage? We don’t have a particularly big garden and so we probably wouldn’t have room for a septic tank, or any other means of storing and/or treating waste.

Gibson Mill at Hardcastle Crags, which is off-grid.

A case study: Gibson Mill

Up above Hebden Bridge is Hardcastle Crags, a National Trust property which is home to Gibson Mill. The Mill is off-grid, because of its remote location – it’s about a mile away from the nearest electricity cables, for example. So, electricity is instead generated on site, using solar panels and a hydro-electric generator. Mills were typically built next to watercourses and Gibson Mill is no exception, being served by Hebden Beck. Whilst this would have driven a waterwheel in years gone by, nowadays it drives a turbine to produce electricity. The solar panels have recently been replaced with newer, more efficient models, and there are huge batteries to store energy.

We last went back in 2023, and despite having more than one way of generating electricity on site, there was still a diesel generator at the back that was needed to top-up the electricity supply. Even then, they were unable to serve hot food in the café as a result of not having sufficient power.

Gibson Mill also has no connection to the sewerage system, so its toilets are composting toilets. Below the toilets are huge vats filled with worms, who digest our waste for us. It’s feasible at this scale because it’s a tourist attraction, and the alternative of laying pipes would be more expensive.

Conclusion – staying mostly on-grid

So, in summary: going totally off-grid would be difficult, although coming off the gas grid is achievable and something that we want to do eventually. We don’t live in a very remote area, and so going off-grid with electricity and/or water wouldn’t really make sense. Even if we could find the means to generate our own electricity, the upfront costs of installing the required equipment would probably outweigh the potential savings.

Radiator reflectors

A photo of a radiator in our bathroom, with a radiator reflector next to it.

The recent cold snap, and corresponding increase in our heating bill, has meant that I’ve looked at using radiator reflectors at home. These are panels, made of reflective material, which go behind your radiators and reflect heat back into the room.

Unless you’re lucky enough to have under-floor heating, if you have central heating then your heat will most likely come from radiators hung on your walls. The heat from these radiators literally radiates out in all directions, which means that some of this heat will be going into the walls behind your radiator. Radiator reflectors redirect that heat back into your room, increasing the efficiency of the radiator.

Radiator reflectors are especially useful for radiators on external walls, as otherwise you’re potentially allowing heat to escape outside the home. Our house is around 100 years old, and we’ve been told that we can’t have cavity wall insulation, so heat loss is an issue for us.

Choosing radiator reflectors

The radiator reflectors that I bought are Radi Save from Must Have Ideas. Instead of individual panels, you get one five metre long strip of material, which you then cut down to size. Thankfully, the four radiators that I wanted to add reflectors to added up to 5.1m, so one pack was adequate; if I was to do the whole house, then two would have probably been sufficient. Each five metre pack normally costs £20, but they’re on offer for £15 each at present, plus postage.

The material is easily cut with regular scissors – you just need to measure the radiator’s width, knock maybe an inch off each end, and cut it to size. You also need to measure and cut out holes so that it can slide around the brackets. Then, just drop it in place behind the radiator, assuming your nine-year-old hasn’t filled the back of the radiator with various dropped toys. You can then attach them to the wall with double-sided tape, if you wish; I haven’t yet, as it gives us the option of storing them over summer when the radiators are off.

The market leader seems to be Radflek (sponsored link) – they will sell you panels and a kit to hang them from the radiator brackets. A pack of two panels costs £20, so they’re a little more expensive than Radi Save. However, as you would expect, there are many other radiator reflectors on sale from Amazon, including similar products to Radi Save.

Do they work?

As I write this, I have installed our radiator reflectors on two radiators – one in our bathroom, and the other in our dining room. Our bathroom radiator is small, and behind a door, and this is where we’ve seen the most benefit. The room doesn’t feel as cold as before, and there’s been less of an issue with condensation on the window since I fitted the radiator reflectors.

Also, I believe the previous owners of the house used to have a gas fire in the bathroom, where the radiator is now, however the old flue from the gas fire remains. As such, some of the heat from the radiator was being channelled out of the house through the flue. The radiator reflector seems to be preventing this now, which is great – indeed, the back of the reflector, facing the wall, was almost cold even when the radiator was on.

So yes, it feels like they’re working. I can’t back this up with my own solid data, but most product pages selling radiator reflectors seem to include images taken from thermal imaging cameras to show that they work.

Do they save money?

£15 for four radiators doesn’t seem like much, but it’s still an investment. Whether you will save money by using radiator reflectors will most likely depend on whether you have thermostatic radiator valves (TRV). These are valves on your radiator that open and close in response to how warm your radiator is; once your room is warm enough, the valves will close up and will reduce the flow of hot water into the radiator. As mentioned, radiator reflectors help by increasing the efficiency of the radiator, theoretically meaning that the radiator will warm up faster, and so that the TRV can close up sooner.

We have standard TRVs on our radiators, but it’s possible to get smart TRVs. These can be set to a specific temperature, using an app, and, if they’re from the same brand as your thermostat, can control your boiler or heat pump too. If not, then it’s possible to rig something up with Home Assistant.

If you don’t have TRVs, that doesn’t mean that you won’t save money – certainly, if you add a reflector to the radiator in the room where your thermostat is, you should still save some money. But hopefully you’ll find that your rooms are at least warmer than they were before, without burning more gas.

Can’t I just use kitchen foil?

I’ve long been aware of the suggestion that you just put some kitchen foil behind your radiators, rather than buying dedicated radiator reflectors. According to this web page, kitchen foil may work, but it isn’t likely to be as effective. It’s delicate, so tears easily, and isn’t as insulative as proper radiator reflectors.

Heat Pump mythbusting

An AI generated image of a heat pump outside a house

Whilst we currently still have a traditional gas boiler for our heating and hot water, should it ever break down or need replacing, we’ll get a heat pump instead. Heat pumps use electricity to provide heat, and are about three times more efficient than even the newest condensing gas boilers.

There’s a really good visual explainer from The Guardian here about how heat pumps work. Basically, they work like fridges in reverse. Heat pumps extract any heat from the ground or air, and pressurise it using a compressor. The pressure heats the air, and the resultant hot air heats up water. This water is then pumped around your central heating system, or into your hot water tank. Using pressure to heat air in this way uses significantly less energy than heating it directly.

But there’s a lot of misinformation out there about heat pumps. This page on CarbonBrief.org lists 18 myths. Of these myths, 12 are outright debunked and the remaining six are in a grey area. And it seems to be an issue largely limited to the UK; in 2021, we had the lowest uptake of heat pumps out of 21 European countries.

Heat pump uptake in Britain

So why is Britain in particular so behind on heat pump uptake? It seems like political lobbying has a role. Boiler manufacturers are trying to push back phase-out dates, presumably as they have huge amounts of stock that would be otherwise worthless.

But also Britain is relatively unique in the world in that we have a privatised gas network. Different private companies each produce the gas, distribute the gas, and bill us for the gas in our homes. The gas producers can sell this gas on the open market, which is why our energy bills rocketed when Russia declared war on Ukraine and the wholesale price went up. Gas is distributed by the privatised National Grid, and in local areas by companies like Cadent and Northern Gas Networks. And then we pay consumer energy companies like British Gas, Octopus, EDF and e-On to get the gas into our homes. In other words, there’s a lot of money to be made from gas, and therefore vested interests in keeping gas supplies going.

Our move away from gas

When we bought our house in 2015, it was very reliant on gas. As well as a 40+ year old gas boiler supplying central heating and hot water, there were two gas fires, a gas oven and gas hob. We got rid of the two gas fires even before we moved in, and replaced the gas boiler with a more efficient condensing boiler. At the same time, we had a Nest smart thermostat fitted. Then in 2022, we got a new kitchen with a dual electric fan ovens and an induction hob. So our boiler is our only remaining gas-using appliance.

I suspect we would have opted for a heat pump instead if they had been more widely available and affordable. As it is, our boiler is only just out of its warranty period and so it’s not worth replacing yet. But when it is time to be replaced, we’ll get a heat pump. After all, we generate our own electricity using solar panels. It would also mean we could have our gas supply turned off, saving us from paying the daily standing charge. This is currently 29p per day, which adds up to over £100 per year.

Meross energy monitoring smart plugs

A photo of a Meross energy monitoring smart plug in a UK plug socket

I’ve recently bought a pair of Meross energy monitoring smart plugs (sponsored link), and by integrating these with Home Assistant, I now get notifications when the washing machine and tumble dryer have finished.

Previously, I’ve used Tuya smart plugs. Which are fine, but these ones don’t do energy monitoring, don’t work with Apple HomeKit and I have some privacy concerns. The Meross plugs, on the other hand, do offer energy monitoring, can be used with 13 Amp devices, and also work with Matter. They’re also smaller, and feel more solidly built than the older Tuya plugs.

Matter support

These smart plugs also support Matter, the open smart home standard. This should mean that you can use them with any smart home ecosystem, whether that’s Amazon, Google, Apple HomeKit, Samsung SmartThings or Home Assistant. I was able to get them to pair with Home Assistant, but not with HomeKit. It turns out I need a device that can act as a HomeKit hub, which can be a permanently plugged-in iPad, Apple TV or Apple HomePod. It won’t just use any other Matter server on my home network. This is ironic as the Home Assistant app uses the same Matter provisioning process on iOS devices.

It’s also worth noting that Matter support is limited to turning the smart plugs on and off. I’m guessing the Matter specification doesn’t include energy monitoring as yet. Also, these smart plugs connect over 2.4 Ghz Wifi, which is worth noting if you’ve configured your Wifi network to only use 5 GHz. They don’t use Thread.

Screenshot of the hassio_appliance-status-monitor Blueprint being configured as an automation in Home Assistant

Making use of energy monitoring

If you want to take advantage of the energy monitoring capabilities of the smart plugs, you’ll either need the official Meross app (for iOS and Android), or use Home Assistant. Whilst I have installed the Meross app, I’ve set up the automations in Home Assistant. There isn’t an official Home Assistant integration for Meross, so you’ll need to install the Meross LAN custom integration which is available through HACS.

Once you’ve set it up and added your devices, you’ll need to set up the energy monitoring automation. By far the easiest way is to use this BlueprintBlueprints are essentially templates for automations that you can download and configure. Make sure you follow the instructions, as you’ll need to create four Helpers for each smart plug, and give them specific names.

You can then define actions to take when the energy monitoring detects the appliance has started and ended. In my case, I’ve told it to send a notification to my phone when the device has finished. In the case of my tumble dryer, this includes a 15 minute delay as it uses less power towards the end (and otherwise results in notification spam). You may need to tweak the power thresholds as well. If all goes well, then you’ll get a notification like the one in the screenshot below.

A screenshot of a notification from Home Assistant stating that the washing machine has finished, triggered by the energy monitoring smart plugs

Doing this means that you can get one of the key features of a smart device, without paying a significant premium. I paid £25 for the two plugs from Amazon, whereas it would have cost at least another £100 to buy a smart tumble dryer. Our washing machine is 9 years old and I’m not even sure that smart washing machines were on the market at the time.

Is there a Zigbee network in your house?

A photo of our Smart Meter which states it is Zigbee certified

If you’re in the UK, and have a smart meter, then your home probably has a Zigbee network that you may not know about.

What is Zigbee?

Zigbee is a wireless mesh networking protocol, that is commonly used for smart devices. If you have smart lightbulbs, such as the Ikea Trådfri or Philips HUE range (sponsored link), then Zigbee is what these devices use to communicate with their hub.

Zigbee isn’t the same as Wifi. Wifi devices belong to the 802.11 family of IEEE standards, whereas Zigbee is in the 802.15 family . There’s a difference at the hardware level, so a device that supports Wifi can’t use Zigbee unless it has a specialised chipset. However, there is commonality between the two; like Wifi, Zigbee uses IP addresses, and operates on the 2.4 GHz band.

Our In Home Display, which shows our usage from our smart meters and connects using Zigbee

If you have smart meters for your electricity and gas, then these will use Zigbee to communicate with your IHD (In Home Display). This is the small device that shows your current and daily usage.

Can you access this Zigbee network?

No. Even if you have a device with Home Assistant and a Zigbee dongle, it won’t be able to see the Zigbee network that your meters and IHD use. I suspect this is because your electricity meter has its own SIM card, to access the internet to send your readings. If you could access this Zigbee network, then it may use your electricity meter’s internet connection and not your own.

Update (January 2025): Depending on where you live, your smart meter may not actually have a SIM card. If you live in Wales, or central and southern England, then it will have a SIM card and will send your data using 2G or 3G internet services on O2’s network. However, if you live in Scotland or the north of England, as in north of the M62 corridor, then your smart meter will send data on the 400MHz band. This offers lower bandwidth, but higher range, and more likely to penetrate the insides of houses in remote areas. We have the latter type of smart meter, as we live just north of the house in the middle of the M62.

There are, however, some devices that will bridge between this Zigbee network and your own Wifi network at home. Some newer IHD devices offer this, and if you’re an Octopus Energy customer, you can join the waiting list for the Octopus Home Mini. I joined the waiting list a few months ago, but I haven’t heard anything yet. Meanwhile, you can also buy a Glow CAD (Consumer Access Device) for £65, which can connect to Home Assistant. Alas, it’s out of stock at the time of writing.

Another option for Octopus Energy customers is this Home Assistant addon, which brings in your usage data. However, it updates half hourly unless you already have an Octopus Home Mini.

Other ‘secret’ networks in your home

In our home, we also have a couple of Thread networks. Thread is related to Zigbee in that it’s also in the 802.15 family, and is arguably a successor. Nest developed it to enable their smart thermostats to talk wirelessly to the heat link that connects to your boiler, so this makes one network. Newer Nest thermostats can act as a Thread Border Router and so other devices using Matter can connect to it, but we have an older model.

We also have a pair of Google Nest Wifi devices (a hub and a point) which use Thread to communicate with each other. Google has updated these to offer a Thread Border Router, and so I’ve been able to access this with Home Assistant, ready for when we have some Matter compatible devices. So at least I can access one of the three non-wifi networks in my home.

Further reading

Whilst researching this, I came across this Hacking Your Smart Meter (Part 1) article, although there doesn’t appear to be a part 2. Instead, the author, Terence Eden, uses an API from his energy company as above.

The Smart Meter Home Area Network is also a really useful article, on what is quite a well balanced web site about the various pros and cons of having a smart meter. Because we export excess energy from our solar panels, we need to have a smart meter to be paid back for what we export.

How to make the most of your solar panels

This is a guide that I’ve put together based on around nine months’ experience with having solar panels on our roof, and some wise guidance from third parties. It’s going to be very UK-centric, because that’s where I live, but hopefully some of the advice will apply even if you live elsewhere.

If you don’t have solar panels, then some of this advice may still be useful – quite a lot of it is general energy saving advice, and will apply even if you don’t have the means to generate your own electricity. And some if it is worth following if you’re considering solar panels in the future, as there are some lifestyle changes that could benefit you more if you have solar panels installed.

Principles

There are some underlying principles to most of the advice on here – so consider this to be a high level summary. Essentially, you want to:

  1. Maximise your energy use during the daytime, when it’s sunny.
  2. Use electricity to heat things, rather than mains gas.
  3. Minimise energy wastage.

Here’s why they’re important:

Maximise daytime energy usage

Simply put: you want to prioritise your energy use when it’s free. That means doing tasks like washing and drying clothes, cooking and charging electric vehicles when it’s light outside and your panels are generating electricity.

Using electricity to heat things

Your solar panels will help you reduce the amount of electricity that you need to use from the electricity grid (and therefore save money) but they won’t help with your gas bills – unless, you switch to using electricity rather than gas to heat things.

Minimise energy wastage

This is all about having efficient electric devices and appliances. Your solar panels will probably be able to generate about 3.5 kW in full, direct sunlight, based on a typical installation. But that’s not going to help much if you regularly use appliances which require more than that; or, for example, if you have lots of old and inefficient light bulbs switched on.

Cooking

When we cook things, we use heat, and in UK homes, that heat normally comes either from burning gas or using electricity. As I mentioned above, having solar panels means that you need to focus on using electricity to heat things to take advantage of them. So, if you have a gas cooker, you’re not going to benefit as much from solar panels as you would do if you have an electric oven and hob – especially an induction hob which is more energy efficient.

Clearly, buying a whole new hob and oven is a big expense, especially if they’re built in to your kitchen. So, if you still have a gas hob, consider alternatives:

  • Ikea sell free-standing electric induction hobs that can be plugged into a standard wall socket – a two zone hob costs about £90 and has the benefit of being portable.
  • Could you use a microwave instead of an oven? Even if you have an electric oven, microwaves use significantly less energy – a typical microwave needs 800–900 watts, as opposed to an oven which can require 2000 watts. Plus, they will typically cook your food more quickly, and don’t need to be pre-heated, thus using even less energy.
  • An air fryer is worth considering as well, for the same reason as a microwave – you can get crispy food faster and using less energy than you would in an oven. I know Jay Rayner isn’t a fan but lots of people swear by them, although we haven’t yet bought one ourselves.
  • Consider using a slow cooker. Whilst they’re not suited for all meals, you can start them during the day when it’s daylight. This means that you do most of the cooking whilst your solar panels are generating energy, and so you’ll minimise the amount of grid energy that you’ll need. This is especially useful in winter, when it’s often dark when people finish work. And overall, they can use less energy than quicker cooking methods. We’ve cooked several great slow cooker recipes from the Bored of Lunch cookbook (affiliate link) and it’s great coming home from work knowing that your dinner is already just about ready to serve.
  • You could also consider using a pressure cooker, such as an Instant Pot – again, the pressure means that you can reduce the cooking time and use less energy. Most models also have a ‘keep warm’ function so you could cook your food mid-afternoon during daylight, and then have it still warm a couple of hours later for dinner. All Instant Pot models can double as a slow cooker, and the newer models incorporate an air fryer too.
  • If you bake your own bread, then an automatic bread maker may also save money compared with baking in a standard oven, due to the smaller space needed to be heated. And you can use a time delay function on some modes, so that you’re using at a time when the panels are generating the most energy.

Washing up

When it comes to washing up pots and pans, consider boiling an electric kettle and mixing this with cold water, rather than using the hot tap, if you have gas for central heating and hot water.

If you have a dishwasher, consult the manual to see if it has a time delay function. That way, you can load it in the morning, and then have it come on later in the day when there’s more daylight. We have a ‘smart’ dishwasher from Bosch, which comes with an app that allows you to tell it to start at a specific time using your phone. Also, make use of any ‘eco’ settings that it has – it’ll take longer, but use less energy overall.

Clothes washing

Some washing machines have both cold and hot water inlets, so, if you can, have a look at how it’s been plumbed in. If both are plumbed in, and you use gas to heat your hot water, find out if you can disable it, or have it isolated, so your machine only uses cold water that it heats itself using electricity.

Where possible, wash clothes at a lower temperature. Most laundry detergents work fine at 30ºC, although you may find that your washing cycles take longer. Some clothes may even wash well at 20ºC. You should, however, use your machine at 60ºC every couple of months or so, as lower temperature washes don’t kill all germs; prolonged use of cold washes can result in mould growing in your machine.

As with dishwashers, if your washing machine has an ‘eco mode’, use it – again, it may lengthen the washing cycle but should use less energy overall.

Drying clothes

The cheapest way to dry your clothes is arguably outside on a washing line, but this may not be an option that’s open to you – you might not have a suitable outdoor space, or it’s raining.

Tumble dryers have a reputation of being very energy-hungry, and that is true of many older models, but the newest heat pump models are much more efficient. So if you’re in the market for a new tumble dryer, consider a heat pump one – you will pay a higher price upfront, but their energy use is much lower than condenser types, and in a different league to the oldest models. Indeed, they can use less energy than electric heated clothes drying racks, which are often touted as cheaper alternatives.

As it happens, I have both a heat pump dryer and a heated clothes rack, because not all of our clothes can be tumble-dried (always check the label!). However, the heat pump tumble dryer is much quicker, and tends to use less energy overall.

Showers

On the one hand, having an electric shower, rather than one that uses gas-heated hot water, seems like good advice when you can generate your own electricity. However, electric power showers use a lot of energy – pretty much the maximum 7 kW that a single phase electrical supply can provide. The typical maximum output of a solar system is 3.5 kW, so even if it’s a brilliantly sunny afternoon, your panels are only going to be able to provide half the energy required. On weekdays, our household typically has our showers before 7am, so in the winter it’s still dark, ergo no solar energy.

However, in summer, when the water temperature is higher, you can use your shower’s eco mode, if it has one, to lower its energy usage. And having shorter showers will save money too (especially if you have a water meter). You could also consider shifting your showers to a different time of day, although personally I find that having a shower first thing helps me wake up. Some workplaces also offer showers for staff to use, if you’re happy to wait until you get to work to have a shower.

If you have a battery system at home, then this may help reduce how much grid energy your shower uses, if you have showers when it’s typically dark.

Electric cars

One of the biggest selling points of an electric car is that you can charge it at home whilst you’re not using it, rather than having to find a petrol station to refuel. And, having solar panels means that you can use electricity you’ve generated yourself to charge your car, thus saving even more money.

However, as with electric power showers, a standard home charger port will output around 7 kW, and this will probably be more than your panels can output (unless you have a very big roof). If you haven’t already had a charger port installed, consider buying one where you can vary the charging rate, so that you don’t use as much grid energy. This will mean that your car charges more slowly, but it’ll cost less money. It may also be that you can control how fast your car charges using controls inside the car, or on a phone app.

And, as with many other things mentioned in this article, choosing when to charge your car is also important. Having it on charge in the afternoon, when the sunlight is strongest, will mean that you make the most of your solar energy.

Heating

Most British houses use gas for heating. I’m sure in 50 years time, we’ll look back and wonder why on earth we used to pump a massively flammable fossil fuel into peoples’ homes, but for now you’ll probably use gas to power a water boiler which then pumps hot water around your home.

Heat pumps are probably the best replacement for gas boilers – they’re about three times more efficient than boilers and are powered by electricity – which is great if you’re generating your own solar energy. And, provided that you don’t also have a gas stove, then you may be able get your gas supply disconnected – that way, you won’t have to pay the daily standing charge. But heat pumps are expensive – even with government support, you’re looking at several thousand pounds. Our gas boiler was only replaced 7 years ago and has only just come out of warranty, so a heat pump is very much a future ambition for us.

Furthermore, heat pumps won’t be suitable for all properties; you’ll need a separate hot water cylinder (annoying we removed ours when we had our combi boiler fitted) and the heat pump typically sits outside your house like an air conditioning unit does.

So, if a heat pump isn’t an option, then there are other things you could consider:

Lifestyle changes

Something that I’ve alluded to above is about timing – running power hungry appliances at the time when you’re generating the most power. This tends to be afternoons, and so it helps if you are at home in the afternoon to be able to switch devices on at the right time. So, if your job is flexible enough to allow it, being able to work from home one or two days a week will help you make the most of the times when your panels are outputting the most electricity. I’m lucky that my job can be done either at home or in an office and so I’m able to work flexibly, and on the days when I’m at home, I use my lunch breaks to put the washing machine on, start the dishwasher, load the dryer, set the slow cooker going, and so on.

We don’t yet have an electric car, but being able to charge at home during the day whilst working, will be cheaper than using a public charger.

Solar battery systems

Many companies that offer solar panels will also offer to fit a battery at the same time. They’re about the size of a mini tower PC from the 1990s, and a typical battery will provide up to 5 kW of power.

These batteries let you store any electricity that your panels generate for later use, rather than exporting it directly to the grid – although you can still do that once the battery is fully charged. Because you get significantly less money back for the energy you sell to the grid, than you do for the electricity that you buy from the grid, having a battery can help you save money.

They’re particularly helpful in winter, as they help to reduce your energy usage at teatime, and in the spring and summer months, you may find that your battery is able to meet your household’s energy needs overnight, to the extent that you use little or no grid energy at all during the middle months of the year. Indeed, last summer, there were several days where our only electricity ‘usage’ for certain sunny days was to pay the daily standing charge.

The other benefit of having a battery in your home is resilience in the case of a power cut. I’m writing this just after Storm Babet blew its way across the UK and Ireland in October 2023, and knowing that we would have a battery to fall back on was re-assuring. As it was, we didn’t lose power on this occasion. And it’s worth noting that the way our battery system is set up, it won’t automatically take over in the event of a power cut; we instead have two sockets in our cellar that we can use that run solely from the battery. Which means that we would need to run some long extension cables to the fridge/freezer and any other appliances that we needed to run until the power comes back on.

It’s worth noting that battery systems are expensive – typically adding around £5000 to a solar panel installation. MoneySavingExpert reckons that the economic case isn’t quite there for them yet, but we have one, and it makes sense to have it installed at the same time as your panels. As battery technology continues to improve, hopefully prices will come down.

Going fully off-grid

A decent sized solar system, combined with a battery, may mean that you can go weeks at a time without using any energy from the electricity grid. So it may be tempting to consider going completely ‘off grid’ – as in permanently disconnecting from the electricity grid and only using energy you’ve generated yourself.

The argument in favour of this is the ‘standing charge’, which is a bit like line rental for a landline phone. You pay this daily charge – we currently pay about 60p per day – to be connected to the electricity grid, regardless of how much energy you use or sell back. If you’re not on the grid, then you don’t need to pay this, saving about £220 per year.

But I think there are stronger arguments against going off-grid. Firstly, unless you have a larger than average solar system and a big battery, you will almost certainly run out of electricity in the winter months. Britain just doesn’t get enough sunlight on enough days all year round. You could consider adding a small wind turbine, but this won’t help on dull days with no wind; ideally, to go completely off grid, you need to have several ways of generating power that can compensate for each other if one is unavailable.

The second reason is that you’ll lose the ability to sell back your excess energy to the grid, under the Smart Export Guarantee. Depending on your energy supplier, this can be up to 15p per kWh, and on sunny days where you’re not using much yourself, this can net you £2–3 – more than the standing charge. Indeed, our savings in three months (during winter and spring) exceeded the annual cost of the standing charge.

The return on investment

A solar panel installation will typically cost between £5000 and £7000 – plus more if you opt for a battery as well. Our system, which has a 4.8 kW solar capacity and a similarly sized battery, cost just shy of £11,000 to install, and it took most of one day to fit. In the 9 months since installation, our estimated savings are around £800 so far – that’s both money saved by not using grid energy, and money earned from selling excess energy back to the grid. We’re approaching winter here in the northern hemisphere and so by the time the one year anniversary of our panels installation rolls around, I would expect us to have saved not quite £1000. This means we should be on track to recoup our investment within 14 years – about the same time that the mortgage on our house matures.

We’re doing many of the things detailed above to try to save more money faster, and it’s worth noting that UK energy prices have recently fallen from the highs of last winter, so there could be some variation in the time taken to recoup our outlays.

The environmental argument

Throughout this piece, I have focussed on the economic case for solar panels, and how to save money. But having solar panels isn’t just about cutting energy bills – you’re also contributing to de-carbonisation of the energy grid, and hopefully reducing the impact of climate change.

The app that connects to our inverter (the appliance which converts the DC output from the solar panels into AC electricity, and interfaces with the battery) not only estimates how much money you’re saving, but also how much less CO2 your energy use is releasing into the atmosphere.

Whilst I’m unsure of what assumptions it is making, it reckons that we’ve reduced our carbon footprint by over 3.5 tonnes in 9 months.

Although the completion of several massive offshore wind farms now means that the UK typically generates more than half of its electricity from renewables, we still burn a lot of gas to generate electricity. The more people who adopt solar, the sooner those gas-fired power stations can close.

Energy security

I’ve mentioned our battery system offering some resilience in case of power cuts, but making greater use of solar panels, wind turbines and hydro-electric schemes also helps the country retain energy independence. This is something that the war in Ukraine has put into sharp focus, and revealed just how many European countries were reliant on importing oil and gas from Russia. Having lots of micro-generation of electricity spread right across the country reduces the risk of power cuts caused by gas pipelines and interconnector cables being cut, or power stations going offline.

Conclusion

If you have solar panels, or some other means of generating your own electricity, then I hope that the above is helpful to you. And even if you don’t, some of the advice I’ve suggested may help you save money. Energy prices have come down from their highs during the winter of 2022–23, but they’re still much higher than they used to be only 3–4 years ago, and are not showing signs of falling back to those levels any time soon. So, if you have invested in solar, or are considering it, hopefully these suggestions will help you make the most of your energy saving, carbon reducing panels.

This post originally appeared on Medium.

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